It's 6 a.m. at Kyambura Gorge Lodge, just outside of Uganda's Queen Elizabeth National Park, and I can hear singing. Not being a morning person, I've declined a wake-up call, but I can just make out the melodic voice of Peace, the lodge's personal butler, as she delivers fresh, local coffee to my neighbour.

We're up early to head into the north section of the park for a lion safari…

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